Free Down Payment Calculator
Work out your down payment in dollars or as a percentage, and see the loan it leaves behind. This down payment calculator shows where you stand against the 20% PMI threshold and what a larger deposit would do to your monthly payment and total interest.
Down Payment Calculator
Enter a dollar amount or a percentage — each one updates the other.
$80,000
20% of the price
At 20% down or more, a conventional loan normally has no PMI.
| Purchase price | $400,000 |
|---|---|
| Down payment | $80,000.00 |
| Down payment percentage | 20% |
| Loan amount | $320,000.00 |
| Loan-to-value (LTV) | 80% |
| Monthly payment | — |
| Total interest | — |
| Total cost of purchase | — |
| PMI position | Not required |
The amount, percentage and loan are arithmetic from your figures. Payment and interest need the rate you enter.
We don't store your inputs. No sign-up required.
Your Down Payment and Monthly Payment
The results card above updates as you type. It reports three things, and only one of them needs an interest rate.
- Down payment amount — the cash you put in, shown in dollars. Type either the amount or the percentage and the other updates automatically.
- Down payment percentage — the same figure expressed against the purchase price. This is what decides your PMI position and what lenders look at.
- Monthly payment — the principal and interest on what is left to borrow. This appears once you enter a rate, because a payment cannot be calculated without one.
The amount, the percentage and the loan are pure arithmetic, so they appear immediately with no rate at all. That is deliberate: you can work out exactly how much to save without us putting a rate in front of you that may not match your quote.
Open View Full Breakdown for the loan-to-value ratio, the total interest and the total cost of the purchase. LTV is simply the mirror of your down payment percentage — 20% down is an 80% LTV — and it is the term most lenders use in their own paperwork.
What Is a Down Payment?
A down payment is the part of a purchase price you pay in cash up front, with the rest financed by a loan. On a $400,000 home with $80,000 down, you borrow $320,000 — the down payment never appears in the loan at all. A down payment on a house is normally quoted as a percentage of the purchase price, which is why the calculator above accepts either form.
It serves two purposes. For you, it reduces what you borrow, which lowers the payment and the total interest. For the lender, it is evidence that you have a stake in the property: a borrower with real equity is less likely to walk away, which is why lenders price larger down payments more favorably and often require mortgage insurance when the deposit is small.
Two things are commonly confused with the down payment and are worth separating:
- Earnest money is a good-faith deposit paid when your offer is accepted. It is normally credited toward your down payment at closing, not an extra cost.
- Closing costs are separate from the down payment entirely — lender fees, appraisal, title work, recording and the escrow cushion. They arrive at the same time, which is why budgeting only for the deposit leaves buyers short.
The same idea applies to vehicles, which is why a car down payment works identically: price minus deposit equals the amount financed. Only the mortgage-specific parts, such as PMI, do not carry across.
How Much Should You Put Down?
There is no universally correct figure, and anyone who gives you one without knowing your situation is guessing. What there is instead is a clear set of trade-offs, and how much down payment makes sense depends on which of them matters most to you.
The case for a larger deposit. You borrow less, so the payment and the total interest both fall. At 20% on a conventional loan you avoid mortgage insurance entirely. You start with more equity, which protects you if values dip and gives you options to refinance or sell. Lenders may also view the application more favorably.
The case for a smaller deposit. Saving to 20% can take years, during which you are paying rent and prices may move. A smaller deposit preserves cash for closing costs, moving, repairs and an emergency fund — and a home bought with nothing left in reserve is a fragile position regardless of how good the loan looks.
A practical test. After your down payment and closing costs, do you still have several months of expenses in reserve? If not, the deposit is probably too large, even if a bigger one would produce a better payment. Liquidity you can reach matters more than equity you cannot.
Use the quick-pick percentage buttons above to compare 3.5%, 5%, 10%, 15% and 20% on your own price in a few seconds. To work from the other direction — what price your income supports in the first place — use the home affordability calculator.
What Is PMI and When Does It Apply?
PMI stands for private mortgage insurance. It is worth being precise about what it does: it protects the lender if you stop paying. It is not homeowners insurance and it buys you no cover at all.
On a conventional loan, PMI is normally required when your down payment is below 20% of the purchase price — equivalently, when your loan-to-value is above 80%. That is the single threshold the calculator checks, and it is why the results card flips between "Likely required" and "Not required" exactly at 20%.
How PMI drops off
PMI is not permanent on a conventional loan. Two routes end it:
- You request cancellation at 20% equity. Once your balance reaches 80% of the original value you can ask in writing. Lenders may require that you are current on payments and sometimes an appraisal.
- Automatic termination at 22% equity. Under the Homeowners Protection Act, servicers generally must remove PMI automatically once the balance reaches 78% of the original value on most loans, provided payments are current.
Equity can build from paying down the balance, from rising property values, or from both. If your area has appreciated, an appraisal may get you to the threshold sooner than the amortization schedule alone would — the amortization calculator shows exactly when the balance crosses it.
FHA loans work differently. Their mortgage insurance premium is not the same as conventional PMI, and depending on the loan it can last the full term rather than dropping off at 20% equity. If you are comparing an FHA loan with a low-down conventional loan, compare the insurance rules as carefully as the rate. The CFPB's owning a home resources set out the differences.
Low-Down-Payment and Assistance Programs
The 20% benchmark is a guideline for avoiding PMI, not a requirement to buy. The minimum down payment a lender will accept is often far lower, and several routes exist for buyers with less saved, each with its own eligibility rules and trade-offs.
| Option | Typical minimum down | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Conventional (low-down) | 3% | PMI applies until you reach 20% equity, then it can be removed. |
| FHA | 3.5% | Needs a qualifying credit score; mortgage insurance rules differ from PMI. |
| VA | 0% | For eligible service members and veterans; usually no mortgage insurance. |
| USDA | 0% | For eligible rural and some suburban areas, with income limits. |
| State and local assistance | Varies | Grants or second loans toward the deposit, often for first-time buyers. |
Assistance programs are generally administered by state, county or city agencies rather than nationally, so what is available depends on where you are buying. Many are restricted to first-time buyers, though that term is often defined as not having owned a home in the past three years rather than literally never.
Two reliable, non-commercial places to start:
- The Department of Housing and Urban Development lists state-by-state programs and HUD-approved housing counselors, who advise at low or no cost.
- The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau explains how to compare loan options and what questions to ask a lender.
One caution worth stating plainly: a smaller deposit means a larger loan, a higher payment and usually mortgage insurance. These programs widen access, which is genuinely valuable, but they do not make the purchase cheaper overall. Run both scenarios in the calculator above before deciding.
Down Payment by Purchase Price
This table is arithmetic only: each cell is that percentage of the purchase price in the first column. Your own price is included and marked, and the table rebuilds as you change it. No interest rate, payment or total is implied anywhere in it.
| Purchase price | 3.5% down | 5% down | 10% down | 20% down |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Enter a purchase price above to build the table. | ||||
The gap between the columns is what makes the decision concrete. Moving from 3.5% to 20% on the same price is often a difference of tens of thousands of dollars in cash — and years of saving — against a lower payment and no mortgage insurance. Neither column is the right answer on its own; the table simply shows you the real size of the choice.
Note that only the 20% column clears the PMI threshold on a conventional loan. The 3.5% column corresponds to the usual FHA minimum, and the 5% and 10% columns to common conventional low-down options.
How to Use This Down Payment Calculator
Five fields, and everything updates as you type:
- Enter the purchase price of the home or vehicle. The percentage you have set is kept, so the dollar amount rescales automatically.
- Enter the down payment either way round — type a dollar amount and the percentage updates, or type a percentage and the dollar amount updates.
- Or use a quick-pick button for 3.5%, 5%, 10%, 15% or 20% to compare the common thresholds instantly.
- Add an interest rate if you want the monthly payment and total interest. It is optional: the down payment, percentage, loan and PMI position all work without it.
- Pick a loan term — short terms for a vehicle, longer for a home.
Read the down payment figure first, then the loan, then the PMI line. The PMI row tells you whether you are above or below the 20% conventional threshold and, if below, exactly how much more would reach it.
For a vehicle, enter the vehicle price and a short term; ignore the PMI line, which applies to mortgages only. The car payment calculator and auto loan calculator handle trade-in, sales tax and fees.
Nothing you type is stored or sent anywhere, so run as many versions as you like.
Frequently Asked Questions
There is no single right answer. Putting 20% down on a conventional loan avoids private mortgage insurance and lowers both the payment and the total interest, which is why it is often treated as the benchmark. Many buyers put down less and still buy well, because waiting years to reach 20% has its own costs. The practical test is whether the down payment still leaves you an emergency fund and money for closing costs and early repairs.
Private mortgage insurance protects the lender, not you, if you stop paying. On a conventional loan it is normally required when your down payment is below 20% of the purchase price. You can usually request cancellation once you reach 20% equity, and lenders generally must remove it automatically at 22% equity on most loans. FHA mortgage insurance follows different rules and often lasts the life of the loan.
Yes. Conventional loans are available with as little as 3% down for some buyers, and FHA loans allow 3.5% down with a qualifying credit score. VA and USDA loans offer no-down-payment options for borrowers who meet their eligibility rules. The trade-off is a larger loan, a higher payment and usually mortgage insurance until you build enough equity.
Your loan is the purchase price minus your down payment, so every extra dollar down is a dollar less borrowed. A smaller loan means a smaller monthly payment and less interest across the whole term. Crossing 20% can lower the payment a second time by removing mortgage insurance. Enter different figures above to see the effect on your own numbers.
Yes. The arithmetic is identical: the down payment is a percentage of the purchase price, and what remains is financed. Enter the vehicle price instead of a home price and the amount, percentage and loan figures all apply. Note that PMI is specific to mortgages and does not exist on auto loans. For payments including trade-in and sales tax, use our car payment calculator or auto loan calculator.
Assistance is usually run at state, county or city level rather than nationally, and many programs are aimed at first-time buyers. The Department of Housing and Urban Development lists state-by-state programs and approved housing counselors, and the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau explains how to compare the options. Both are free, non-commercial sources and are linked in the section above.
Every figure on this page is produced from the numbers you enter, and the engine was cross-checked against published loan values before release. For impartial guidance on deposits, mortgage insurance and assistance programs, see the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau and the Department of Housing and Urban Development. More about who we are.
Suzon Mahmud
Suzon Mahmud is a consumer-finance writer covering saving, interest, loans and budgeting.
Our Methodology
The down payment percentage is the amount divided by the purchase price; the loan is the price minus the amount; and loan-to-value is the loan divided by the price. The amount and percentage fields are kept in sync in both directions, and a down payment can never exceed the price. The monthly payment uses the standard fixed-rate formula M = P × r / (1 − (1+r)−n), and total interest is the sum of all payments minus the loan. Before release, the percentage round trip, the loan and LTV arithmetic, the 20% PMI threshold and every cell of the table were recomputed independently, and the payment formula was checked against a published loan value.
No rate is supplied or implied. The interest rate field ships empty and stays empty until you fill it. The down payment, percentage, loan, LTV and PMI position are all pure arithmetic and appear without one; only the payment and total interest require a rate, and they stay blank until you provide it. The table contains no rates and no payments — every cell is simply a percentage of the price.
On PMI: the 20% conventional threshold, cancellation at 20% equity on request and automatic termination at 22% reflect the Homeowners Protection Act as described in CFPB consumer guidance. Individual loans, investor rules and FHA programs vary, so treat the PMI line as an indication rather than a determination for your specific loan.
What the estimate excludes: the PMI premium itself, property taxes, homeowners insurance, HOA dues, closing costs, the escrow cushion, origination fees, sales tax and registration on a vehicle, and any lender overlay. It assumes a fixed rate for the whole term and equal payments.
Figures are rounded for display only. If you find one that looks wrong, please tell us — we check every report. See our disclaimer for the limits of these estimates.
Related Calculators
These free tools cover the rest of the picture:
- Mortgage Calculator — the full monthly payment including property taxes, insurance and PMI.
- Home Affordability Calculator — what price your income and debts support in the first place.
- Car Payment Calculator — how much car you can afford and what a deposit saves each month.
- Auto Loan Calculator — compare loan terms and APRs to find the cheapest financing.
- Amortization Calculator — when your balance crosses the equity thresholds that end PMI.
- First-Time Home Buyer Guide — the upfront costs that sit alongside the deposit.
- All Calculators — every free tool on the site in one place.
- Disclaimer — the limits of what these estimates can tell you.